I have done repeated bakes using the same recipe and different methods to see which method gave me the best flavoured bread.
I chose France’s second most favourite bread, after the Baguette, Pain L’ Ancienne. Ancient Bread, developed in Paris in the 1950’s. Essentially it is a typical French lean dough with 10% Rye flour instead of 100% White flour. I increased the Rye content to 20% because that gives more flavour and yet still the loaf is light and open.
All of the doughs were rested, to hydrate the flour, for 30 minutes after the initial mixing.
Then there was a bare 60 seconds of kneading in a mixer using a beater on the slowest speed. Followed by some six slap and folds to bring the dough together.
Next there were three sets of slap and folds an hour apart, followed by shaping and proofing.
Throughout the fermentation the dough was kept at 26C, 79F, using a temperature controlled proofing chamber.
All of the doughs were baked in a cast iron cloche at 230C 446F for 40 minutes.
Theory
The research underpinning these trials is that organic acids produced during fermentation react with alcohol produced by the yeast to make a range of bread flavour substances. Research shows that long fermentation produces more of these reactions and so the resulting bread has more flavour. These reactions are slower than yeast fermentation and so by using less yeast, fermenting at lower temperatures to slow the yeast down, of by using extended proofing in the fridge, allows these slower flavour reactions to develop more.
Natural Leavens have active lactobacilli in them and these produce a lot more organic acids than does yeast on its own. Note, these are wheat lactobacilli and they are different from those found in dairy products such as Yoghurt.
The results are purely subjective.
The methods
1 Using instant yeast and no cold fermentation.
2 Using Yeast only, no cold fermentation, but adding vinegar to introduce acetic acid.
3 Using a natural leaven and no cold fermentation.
4 Using Instant Yeast and cold proofing for 14 hours.
5 Using a natural leaven and cold proofing for 14 hours.
1 Using instant yeast and no cold fermentation.
Generally I would describe it as mono flavoured lacking in the deeper flavour profiles that some of the other methods produced. The bread flavour did not develop so much in the mouth, nor did it linger so much as did some of the other methods.
2 Using Yeast only, no cold fermentation, but adding vinegar to introduce acetic acid.
This was the worst of the bakes for flavour. The bread had very poor flavour indeed. So much so it was all, but flavourless. I did quite a bit of reading about vinegar after this bake and found that whereas vinegar tightens the gluten a little, it also oxidises the flavour molecules rendering them flavourless. Vitamin C has a similar effect on dough.
3 Using a natural leaven and no cold fermentation.
This developed good multi layered flavours which developed in the mouth and they lingered in the mouth after swallowing. There was a gentle acidity to the bread, but it was not marked as I manage my natural leavens in such a way as not to produce ‘sour dough’. The slight acidity added to the flavour profile. It ordinary cooking adding some acidity to a dish is used for the same reason. It ‘brings the flavours out’.
4 Using Instant Yeast and cold proofing for 14 hours.
The flavours were eminently superior to those of instant yeast without cold proofing. I would describe the flavour profile as gentle and having some different flavours which developed in the mouth with some lingering on the tongue after the bread was swallowed. Altogether a clean pleasant tasting bread. This was a contender for second place with the natural leaven bread without cold proofing. Trying to be very fair I decided that some folk might prefer this lighter flavour profile of this cold proofing method over the fuller flavour profile given by a natural leaven without cold proofing. Though in honesty I do prefer the fuller natural leaven flavours.
5 Using a natural leaven and cold proofing for 14 hours.
There is no doubt in my mind that this yielded the best tasting loaf. The flavours were multi layered and they changed as the bread was savoured in my mouth. There was a long finish after swallowing. To non wine people that means the flavours lingered in the mouth for a few minutes after swallowing. Again, this was not a sour bread that some ‘sourdough’ bakers deliberately produce with their more acidic natural leavens and higher fermentation temperatures. (Higher fermentation temperatures favour the lactic acid producing bacteria more than yeast).
Conclusion
Longer fermentation does increase the flavour of the bread.
A natural leaven does give fuller flavours, but cold proofing with instant yeast gives a good light flavoured bread as well.
Final Thoughts:
The methods here might not be suitable for doughs made with freshly milled flour nd doughs with higher levels of rye flour, because of the higher enzymes present, cold proofing gives time for too much enzyme activity.
For those not wanting to go down the natural leaven route using an ‘old dough’ is an easy alternative. Especially if combined with cold proofing. Lactobacilli will develop in the repeated old dough over time and they will add to the flavour profile.
See: Old Dough (Pâte Fermentée)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1t76ZkUhwU
Cold Proofing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMq3eUSgv28&list=PLJ97q0PY0sXKIWV_l16IV-wueQgtnHEl9&index=54